‘The Atlas of World Embroidery’ Traces the Global History of the Art Form — Colossal

The term “needlework” covers a wide variety of thread-based practices from sewing to knitting to lace-making. While some of these are functional, techniques like embroidery are often employed purely for their aesthetic qualities. From ornately stitched Japanese robes to regal, patterned belts in Central Africa’s Kuba kingdom, the time-honored medium is diverse with virtually endless applications.

In The Atlas of World Embroidery by Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, forthcoming from Princeton University Press, a world of compositions made with needle and thread is compiled into a single volume.

A belt for a Kuba king or immediate family, which as numerous small pendants, including ram’s heads, bells, and harps all covered with glass beads and cowries
A belt for a Kuba king or immediate family, which has numerous small pendants, including ram’s heads, bells, and harps, all covered with glass beads and cowries. Image courtesy of Minneapolis Institute of Art, The Ethel Morrison Van Derlip Fund

Where there is fabric, there tends to be embroidery, whether in the form of ceremonial headdresses, badges, vestments, quilts, gowns, or myriad other items. Often combined with beads, shells, leather, and found objects, the practice fulfills a range of cultural, ritual, and personal purposes.

Every world region has its own interpretations and motifs, from Indigenous America to Europe to the Iranian Plateau. But there is also a rich amount of cross-pollination, highlighting how international trade and migration introduced different designs across cultures.

Emphasizing the spectacular visual diversity of the art form, Vogelsang-Eastwood illuminates embroidery’s global history. The volume contains more than 300 images and thoroughly surveys its implementation and styles, with subsections devoted to individual countries, cultures, and the kinds of ornate needlework that characterize different regions.

The Atlas of World Embroidery is scheduled for release on February 17. Pre-order your copy in the Colossal Shop.

A pieced quilt made from hundreds of small hexagonal pieces of printed cotton
A pieced quilt made from hundreds of small hexagonal pieces of printed cotton. The quilt was made in New York, c. 1830, by Elizabeth Van Horne Clarkson. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. William A. Moore (1923)
A late 20th-century group of Wodaabe men in Niger wear long tabards
A late 20th-century group of Wodaabe men in Niger wear long tabards, some of which are woven, while others (to the left) are embroidered. Photo by Homo Cosmicos
An embroidered Roman Catholic vestment known as the “White ‘Alleluia”
An embroidered Roman Catholic vestment known as the “White ‘Alleluia” chasuble, decorated with symbolic flowers, birds, and the Jesuit “IHS” symbol. This garment was embroidered by seamstress Helena Wintour (c. 1600-1671). Photo by Harriet Magill
A man's festive headwear with an embroidered front section and an upright panel decorated with cowrie shells
A man’s festive headwear with an embroidered front section and an upright panel decorated with cowrie shells. Image courtesy of Minneapolis Institute of Art. Gift of Richard L. Simmons in honor of Lotus Stack
A sashiko robe that has three variations of an interlocking circle pattern known as shippō-tsunagi using white cotton thread on a dark blue ground
A sashiko robe that has three variations of an interlocking circle pattern known as shippō-tsunagi using white cotton thread on a dark blue ground. Image courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Bequest of William Christian Paul (1929)
A 20th-century Miao woman’s apron decorated with embroidery as well as applied shells and seeds
A 20th-century Miao woman’s apron decorated with embroidery as well as applied shells and seeds.
Image courtesy of Minneapolis Institute of Art, The Suzanne S. Roberts Fund for Asian Art
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